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We sailed the 750 miles from the Abaco Islands to Norfolk, VA, primarily to get
North towards Maine. The passage was mostly between
100 and 40 miles offshore, since our mast is too high to use the popular IntraCoastal
Waterway. It was a fairly fast trip, taking 5 days, with only one tack.
The map is based on a satellite image showing the temperature of the
Atlantic waters in late April 2007. The warm (dark orange) water shows
where the Gulf Stream was. We obtained the map from the Internet just
before leaving Marsh Harbour, but by the time we were off Georgia, the Stream
was further East, so we had to chase it. As you can see, the waters off Maine
were chilly in April, which is why we took a month to pass through the
Chesapeake Bay, and another month to reach Maine. Today
(21st June 07) the water in our anchorage in Maine is at 18 deg C. Cool
but a lot better then the 5 degrees or so of April.
It appears on this map that we cut across land at the North of the Chesapeake
Bay, but we took a shipping canal instead. |
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We started in light winds, so had our big
lightweight nylon reacher set. We did not want to head West into the
Gulf stream too early since the NE wind we had would have been unpleasant.
All went well for two days then we tried to sail too close to the wind
with this sail and split it along the blue/yellow seam. We were not
about to wrestle with 750 sq ft of canvas in the sewing machine on board, so
lived with the smaller, heavier jib. |
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Fortunately, after a few hours motoring in a
calm, we had a good spell of SW weather, and sailed most of the rest of the
way to Cape Hatteras under control of the wind vane self steering gear, seen
here. (Double
click any of the photos to see full size, then use the back button on your
browser to return here) |
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Sometimes we took the helm, which is fun, but
not for 12 hours/day by each of us. The water stayed Gulf-Stream-blue till we were
within a quarter mile of the notorious Diamond Shoal light, which
marks the limit at Hatteras.
We turned hard to port there to head for the Chesapeake Bay. The
water turned grey/green, and the temperature dropped from 27 C to 17 C in
about 5 minutes. No more shorts for a day or so, but the Chesapeake
Bay itself
was not too cold. |
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We spent a few days in Hampton, in the SW corner
of Chesapeake Bay. A good anchorage, in an agreeable but little
publicized town. While there, this replica of the first ship to bring
colonists to the area (in the early 17th century arrived.) Notice the
people on deck. the ship is SMALL, yet something like 70 people
crossed the Atlantic in it. |
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We sailed slowly up the Chesapeake, stopping a
day in each of half a dozen pleasant towns/bays, but did not take any
pictures Sailing is quite domesticated, with sheltered water, lots of
anchorages and stores available everywhere.
The only significant limitation on anchoring is that some bays are
surrounded by private houses, with no way to go ashore, and no stores or
other services nearby if we did.
We saw ospreys nesting on the top of many of the navigation markers.
This one rose up to let us know to stay away from her chicks. |
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Baltimore Inner Harbour was a dramatic contrast
from the Bahamas and small towns.
Resurrected over the past 20 years or so from urban
blight, it is a mixture of large hotels, major offices, and entertainment
centre, downtown living and a museum. It is well worth a visit if you
are driving I 95 or cruising in the area. The anchorage is congested,
with everything from pedalos running around to tall ships.
Photos below and to left. We are the largest visible
on the left |

Looking at the anchorage from the cockpit is more like being in a marina,
than being anchored, the other boats are so close |
This
brilliantly coloured guy was in the Baltimore Aquarium, about 100 metres
from where we anchored. |

Looking across the harbour, with Milvina in the midst of pedalo
dragon-boats. Quite a contrast to uninhabited Bahamian anchorages that
we have seen more of.
(Double
click any of the photos to see full size, then use the back button on your
browser to return here)
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The
Argentinean Navy officers training ship, the Libertad is an impressive
sight.She has been around the world several
times.
As this shot shows, it takes a lot of rope to run a
ship. |
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We sailed from Baltimore to New York City, taking the shortcut through the
C&D canal to the Delaware Bay. There are no good anchorages close to
NY City, but a great mooring in the Hudson River at 79th St, in a city park.
Broadway and the subway are only 3 blocks away, and there is a 3 mile long
park on the the shore of Manhattan Island 100 metres away . |
The
subway is more fun than Montreal, even if the magician looks scary |
This
store sells on the street. It was hard to find
someone to pay. So much for the "high crime" reputation of
NY city. |
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We were moored in New York for nearly 2 weeks, while Helen
went to Montreal to teach an aviation medicine case, and Neil flew to
Alabama on a litigation case
After NY city, Helen and Neil sailed to Newport Rhode
Island, and we had a quick crew swap for 3 days when she had to go home but
Michael and his friend Bobby Hughes jumped on board to sail to Rockport,
Massachusetts (NE of Boston) in mid-June 07.
We met about 70 boats in the Marion, MA to Bermuda race
shortly after their start, We were beating up Buzzards Bay as they ran
down. |